When To Use 3 Finger Drag Climbing, As to whether or not you should train your three finger drag, I have this short anecdote. Jun 2, 2025 · Hooper’s Beta Ep. Jan 19, 2021 · Three-finger drag is almost always best when the climber is directly underneath the hold, while the four-finger openhand can easily access gastons or side pulls. Instead of full and half crimp grips, Nelson recommends that his clients use a three-finger drag so they can use it to generate force without putting too much stress on the fingers. 153 How to Fix Pain from Pocket Climbing & Three Finger Drag (Lumbrical Shift Syndrome) Hooper's Beta Watch on Advanced climbers can do one or two additional sets that target three-finger drag and the various one- and two-finger pocket grips. Aug 25, 2025 · In this first article of our three-part series, we’ll explore how finger training evolved over time and led us to today’s no-hang methods. In order to hold smaller edge sizes with a three-finger drag, you need to build your finger flexion instead of just hanging on your skin. Aug 9, 2025 · The three-finger drag, often simply called a "drag" or "open-hand drag," is a foundational grip in climbing, particularly effective on slopier holds, rounded features, or when transitioning between moves. I hadn't run into this in English-speaking climbing youtube content or anywhere here. My three finger drag is my weakest grip by far (about 16kg weaker than my half-crimp on max hangs), but adding it into my training repertoire has helped quite a bit with deadpoints, especially on the Moonboard. t3krqr, 5o1e1, tnhtemo, xd, a0l, p7n3, yell, 2llf, 1h, d8k,